Damian Cook

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• Climbs bolted by Damian Cook

A trad and a sport climber were once embroiled in a fierce debate as to which was the purest form of climbing. The argument raged on until they sought the advice of a visiting guru from a distant land. The guru, being a clever sort, avoided the question altogether and answered:

'Free soloing is the purest form of climbing. You eliminate the rope; you're up there like a bird or a lizard. It's about as free as you can be.'

Well, that told them.

But as the guru wandered away, he started to ponder on the wisdom of his words. Something about his answer did not ring true, and it occurred to him that the solo climber was not entirely free since he must either pre-work the route to be sure of success or carry with him the fear of falling to injury or death. If these could be eliminated, while some consequence of a fall were maintained, then the climber might truly be free. Then he thought, bollocks to all that philosophising, and off he went deep water soloing with his mates. [1]

References

[1] The Blue Cliff by Grant Farquhar, page 84