Simon Yates

First ascent. With Joe Simpson.

While descending after successfully summiting Simpson broke his leg. Yates was able to lower him down the face a rope length at a time before then following down and repeating the process. At one point Yates lowered Simpson off the edge of a cliff, and with no more rope to lower Simpson further, Simpson unable to ascend the rope and Yates being slowly pulled off the mountain Yates was forced to cut the rope.

Remarkably Simpson survived the fall, and more remarkably still was able to extract himself from the crevasse he had landed in and then crawl back to base camp over the course of several days. [1]

References

[1] Simpson, Joe., Colwell, Tony. Touching the Void. Ireland: BookBaby, 2012.