Ken Nichols


Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E3

Prolific and controversial Connecticut and Shawangunks developer, guidebook writer, and staunch traditionalist.

Once I chop a route, it will remain chopped, no matter how many times I have to return to keep it that way. Until the bolting stops, apparently the cliffs will have to be destroyed to save them [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/07/us_bolt_chopper_banned_by_judge_from_chopping_bolts-38849

[2] Climbing magazine, June/July 1991

[3] https://web.archive.org/web/20130223061856/http://www.stopken.org/Home.html

Contributors
32 contributions since 28th January 2026.
20 contributions since 20th November 2023.

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E3

Prolific and controversial Connecticut and Shawangunks developer, guidebook writer, and staunch traditionalist.

Once I chop a route, it will remain chopped, no matter how many times I have to return to keep it that way. Until the bolting stops, apparently the cliffs will have to be destroyed to save them [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/07/us_bolt_chopper_banned_by_judge_from_chopping_bolts-38849

[2] Climbing magazine, June/July 1991

[3] https://web.archive.org/web/20130223061856/http://www.stopken.org/Home.html

Contributors
32 contributions since 28th January 2026.
20 contributions since 20th November 2023.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

4 recorded ascents.

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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent. With some points of aid.

As an aid route

Dol Guldur E4 Lead | ground up 1979
First free ascent.
The Great Wall of China E3 Alternate Leads | onsight May 1987
First ascent. With Dan Rosanstein.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade