Sébastien Berthe

Instagram.com | ifsc.results.info

Quick Info

Nationality: BE
Date of birth: 2nd August 1993
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8c
Hardest Trad (Worked): E12
Hardest Trad (Flash): E10

References

[1] Interview with Lucien Martinez on the 100 7A challenge in Fontainebleau, 2024 https://www.grimper.com/news-les-100-7a-aventure-xxl-facon-bleausarde

Contributors: remus (22 contributions since 12 Oct 2021)
Added on 12th October 2021. Last updated on 12th October 2024.

Quick Info

Nationality: BE
Date of birth: 2nd August 1993
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8c
Hardest Trad (Worked): E12
Hardest Trad (Flash): E10

References

[1] Interview with Lucien Martinez on the 100 7A challenge in Fontainebleau, 2024 https://www.grimper.com/news-les-100-7a-aventure-xxl-facon-bleausarde

Contributors: remus (22 contributions since 12 Oct 2021)
Added on 12th October 2021. Last updated on 12th October 2024.

Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Orbayu (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:09 on 01 September 2023
Ajo Crudo (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:08 on 20 August 2023
La Reina Mora (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:08 on 20 August 2023
Beyond (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:01 on 03 January 2024
Arco Iris (8c+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:08 on 21 August 2023
Bon Voyage (E12)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:03 on 26 March 2024
Rayu (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:08 on 29 August 2023
Bon Voyage (E12)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:04 on 04 April 2024
Le Voyage (E10)
Added at 07:08 on 19 August 2024
Beyond (9a+)
Added at 17:02 on 28 February 2024
Razorblade (8c)
Added at 07:03 on 19 March 2024
Bon Voyage (E12)
Added at 18:04 on 08 April 2024
Le Voyage (E10)
Added at 11:04 on 26 April 2023
Le Voyage (E10)
Added at 05:04 on 19 April 2023
Le Voyage (E10)
Added at 05:04 on 19 April 2023
Le Voyage (E10)
Added at 05:04 on 19 April 2023
Le Voyage (E10)
Added at 05:04 on 19 April 2023
Estado Crítico (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:10 on 12 October 2021
Mind Control (8c)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:10 on 12 October 2021
Super Crackinette (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:10 on 12 October 2021
La Rambla Extension (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:01 on 30 January 2023

Ascents

16 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
2019 The Nose 8b+ Lead | ground up 2019

Notably Seb climbed the route ground up, whereas most ascentionists would abseil in from the top to work the hardest pitches (The Great Roof and Changing Corners) before going from the ground for an attempt.

2020 Speed Intégrale 9a Lead | worked 2020
Super Crackinette 9a+ Lead | worked Nov 2020
2021 Mind Control 8c Lead | flash Mar 2021
Arco Iris 8c+ Lead | worked Jul 2021
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CR4HcV8jlcT/

Estado Crítico 9a Lead | worked Oct 2021
2022 Pineapple Express Variation 8a+ Lead | ground up Apr 2022

An extremely impressive ascent. Seb had never been on the route before and came very close to onsighting it, taking a fall on the last hard pitch.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/seb-berthe-breezes-up-el-nino-el-capitan-yosemite.html

2023 La Rambla Extension 9a+ Lead | worked Jan 2023
La Reina Mora 9a Lead | worked Jan 2023
Le Voyage E10 Lead | flash 11th Apr 2023

It actually started pretty bad, on the very first move of the route I slipped...I took this good crimp, went for the crack and actually slipped and almost fell. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/sebastien_berthe_on_flashing_le_voyage_e10_7a-15132

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV4EO1mdXB0

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7BwDT4xrhE

Ajo Crudo 8c Lead | onsight Aug 2023
Rayu 8c Alternate Leads | flash Aug 2023

Seb and partner Siebe Vanhee swapped leads, with Seb flashing all his pitches including the crux 8c pitch.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwfe0gHtRw4/=

Orbayu 8c Lead | worked 25th Aug 2023

In a day, and Seb's first day on the route!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwp45YvtZJB/=

Beyond 9a+ Lead | worked 23rd Dec 2023
2024 Bon Voyage E12 Lead | worked 19th Mar 2024
Belayed by James Taylor. 8 sessions.

Bon voyage is this incredible route first ascended by James Pearson in early 2023, and then first repeated by the GOAT Adam Ondra a month ago, in February 2024. After long months of reflection, James proposed the grade of 9a, E12, which makes one of the hardest, if not the hardest trad route in the world. The route starts in the famous 8b+ trad-crack line Le Voyage (or ”Les voillage faurmes la jenaice”) and then leaves the crack and traverses left into a blank impressive wall. The notion that on this wall, a route could be freeclimbed on gear, is akin to a magic trick. A big congratulations to the magician James, for having the vision and perseverance to see through his "Bon Voyage" till the end!

When leaving the Voyage, there are a few more “moderate” moves, big moves on good handholds and bad footholds. On the last rest, you need to place the last piece of gear, a little blue Totemcam, which can be quite tricky while climbing, to place in a pocket. From this point, the hard section starts: 12 really intense and complex moves, hard for the fingers, finishing on an amazing arete far left. The section itself could probably be graded 8c or 8c+, and it is quite runout. However, as Adam said, it is "probably safe" with a good belay. Nevertheless, there is a rocky spike, a "guillotine," a few meters below the final arete, which is rather intimidating. I believe that a bad fall at the wrong moment, with just a bit too much slack in the system, could likely result in hitting it.

I spent more or less 8 sessions in total on the route. I first tried Bon Voyage in April 2023 for half an hour after my flash ascent of “Le Voyage”, I immediately fell in love with the route, and decided it would be one of my main goals for 2024. That’s why I came back to Annot at the end of February this year, just a few days after Adam Ondra's lightning-fast ascent, with a firm intention to tackle the route! Despite very erratic weather conditions during this trip, I managed to have 3 sessions on the route. Right from the first session, I pushed myself to lead climb the route to get used to the placement of protections, the falls, and so on. My progress on the route was quite rapid, and by the third session, I was considering doing the entire difficult section in one go. Unfortunately, I injured my little finger on the key move of the route, a big move to the left from a very small mono-finger hold, a very aggressive and particular move. While attempting to link the section, I felt a sharp pain and a jolt in my hand and forearm... Diagnosis: a small tear or strain of the lumbrical muscles inside the hand. So, this first trip ended abruptly, and it's with frustration and, above all, a strong desire to return that I leave Annot!

Two weeks later, I'm back in Annot! My finger is a bit better, but I'm not fully healed yet. I can easily climb using four fingers, but I feel pain as soon as my ring finger and little finger are separated. I'm hesitant to jump back into the process so quickly, but the temptation to return to Bon Voyage is too strong: the route haunts me, and the weather for the upcoming days is perfect. A voice inside me tells me that I can try again despite the minor injury, that I could change my method in the crux move, use another finger, and that it should probably be okay for the other moves. I spend two sessions trying to regain good sensations, recalibrating the movements, and getting used to leading the beginning. To my great surprise, I manage to link the entire difficult section in one lead, albeit with great fear, because the potential fall is not only long but also possibly dangerous, which I find hard to estimate. Then, after a day of rest, I feel ready for some goes “A muerte"! That day, I put in a superb effort and fall at the crux from the ground. I feel quite close to sending it. Unfortunately, upon returning to the ground, I notice that I've severely torn my skin due to the crucial hold, that cursed mono-finger pocket, during my attempt, and I have a deep cut. Impossible to try again... So, I decide to take two days off and do everything to heal this wound as quickly as possible.

On March 19, 2024, I return to the crag after two days off. My motivation is at its peak; I'm eager to tackle the climb! My skin has more or less closed up, but I feel it won't hold for long. During warm-up, I test the move on a static rope, but I dare not try too hard as I feel the wound might open up directly. Well, at that moment, I know I might only get one shot. I'll have to give it my all! Before my attempt, I decide to put strong glue on my skin to protect the injury and prevent it from reopening until later. I'm feeling butterflies in my stomach; I'm stressed. I know it's possible, but I'll have to be good, to surpass myself! My preparation is meticulous; my rack is set up on my harness in detail. I leave nothing to chance and ensure that everything is optimized for my climb. There are many people at the crag (James Pearson has just arrived to work on a new project nearby), and the atmosphere is fantastic. But as I set off, everyone stops climbing and falls silent to watch my run; the tension is high. I give the last instructions to my belayer, James Taylor, an Englishman who came to work on the Voyage, and off I go!

I easily and quickly climb the first meters of the climb. I feel good and strong. After a few minutes of climbing, I'm already on the final rest; I make the last gear placement that I've worked on for a long time to execute it as best as possible. When I launch into the section, I am determined and ready to give it my all. The cheers grow louder and louder as I progress through the difficult and committing section. I'm at the crux now; I place my middle finger in that famous pocket and twist it to fit as best as possible. I can immediately feel all the glue coming off, and the hold attacking my flesh, but there's no time to dwell on it! I launch my body to the left and manage to grab the next hold with just my fingertips. And that's when the real battle begins. I know exactly what I have to do; I am precise in my movements, but I am in agony; with every move, I have to fight. My friends below are literally pushing me with their encouragement! There, I'm on the arete after a famous retreat during the most "delicate" movement in terms of commitment. Now I must remain focused, even though I know it's won. I make the last movements, shouting with joy! I did it! The relief and pleasure of reaching the top of this magnificent line overwhelm me.

Thanks to all those who helped and support me with this process: Soline, Jean-Elie, Mathieu (aka Michmich), James, Miguel, my parents Rico and Coco, Magali and Gilles, Tonio Rhode, James Taylor, Franco Cookson, Jacopo Larcher, and all the others… Thank you! An original film about the whole process and ascent is in preparation, stay tuned! [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4-cDCktU1p/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/troisieme-ascension-de-bon-voyage-par-seb-berthe-3rd-ascent-of-bon-voyage-by-seb-berthe/

[3] https://www.8a.nu/news/sebastien-berthe-repeats-trad-test-piece-bon-voyage-iaaed

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C5VZpn3NWq7/

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXbnIz2yT8c

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Super Crackinette 9a+ Lead | worked Nov 2020
La Rambla Extension 9a+ Lead | worked Jan 2023
Beyond 9a+ Lead | worked 23rd Dec 2023 9a+ (soft)
Speed Intégrale 9a Lead | worked 2020
Estado Crítico 9a Lead | worked Oct 2021
La Reina Mora 9a Lead | worked Jan 2023
Arco Iris 8c+ Lead | worked Jul 2021
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CR4HcV8jlcT/

Mind Control 8c Lead | flash Mar 2021
Ajo Crudo 8c Lead | onsight Aug 2023
Rayu 8c Alternate Leads | flash Aug 2023

Seb and partner Siebe Vanhee swapped leads, with Seb flashing all his pitches including the crux 8c pitch.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwfe0gHtRw4/=

Orbayu 8c Lead | worked 25th Aug 2023

In a day, and Seb's first day on the route!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwp45YvtZJB/=

Razorblade 8c Lead | worked
The Nose 8b+ Lead | ground up 2019

Notably Seb climbed the route ground up, whereas most ascentionists would abseil in from the top to work the hardest pitches (The Great Roof and Changing Corners) before going from the ground for an attempt.

Pineapple Express Variation 8a+ Lead | ground up Apr 2022

An extremely impressive ascent. Seb had never been on the route before and came very close to onsighting it, taking a fall on the last hard pitch.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/seb-berthe-breezes-up-el-nino-el-capitan-yosemite.html

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Bon Voyage E12 Lead | worked 19th Mar 2024
Belayed by James Taylor. 8 sessions.

Bon voyage is this incredible route first ascended by James Pearson in early 2023, and then first repeated by the GOAT Adam Ondra a month ago, in February 2024. After long months of reflection, James proposed the grade of 9a, E12, which makes one of the hardest, if not the hardest trad route in the world. The route starts in the famous 8b+ trad-crack line Le Voyage (or ”Les voillage faurmes la jenaice”) and then leaves the crack and traverses left into a blank impressive wall. The notion that on this wall, a route could be freeclimbed on gear, is akin to a magic trick. A big congratulations to the magician James, for having the vision and perseverance to see through his "Bon Voyage" till the end!

When leaving the Voyage, there are a few more “moderate” moves, big moves on good handholds and bad footholds. On the last rest, you need to place the last piece of gear, a little blue Totemcam, which can be quite tricky while climbing, to place in a pocket. From this point, the hard section starts: 12 really intense and complex moves, hard for the fingers, finishing on an amazing arete far left. The section itself could probably be graded 8c or 8c+, and it is quite runout. However, as Adam said, it is "probably safe" with a good belay. Nevertheless, there is a rocky spike, a "guillotine," a few meters below the final arete, which is rather intimidating. I believe that a bad fall at the wrong moment, with just a bit too much slack in the system, could likely result in hitting it.

I spent more or less 8 sessions in total on the route. I first tried Bon Voyage in April 2023 for half an hour after my flash ascent of “Le Voyage”, I immediately fell in love with the route, and decided it would be one of my main goals for 2024. That’s why I came back to Annot at the end of February this year, just a few days after Adam Ondra's lightning-fast ascent, with a firm intention to tackle the route! Despite very erratic weather conditions during this trip, I managed to have 3 sessions on the route. Right from the first session, I pushed myself to lead climb the route to get used to the placement of protections, the falls, and so on. My progress on the route was quite rapid, and by the third session, I was considering doing the entire difficult section in one go. Unfortunately, I injured my little finger on the key move of the route, a big move to the left from a very small mono-finger hold, a very aggressive and particular move. While attempting to link the section, I felt a sharp pain and a jolt in my hand and forearm... Diagnosis: a small tear or strain of the lumbrical muscles inside the hand. So, this first trip ended abruptly, and it's with frustration and, above all, a strong desire to return that I leave Annot!

Two weeks later, I'm back in Annot! My finger is a bit better, but I'm not fully healed yet. I can easily climb using four fingers, but I feel pain as soon as my ring finger and little finger are separated. I'm hesitant to jump back into the process so quickly, but the temptation to return to Bon Voyage is too strong: the route haunts me, and the weather for the upcoming days is perfect. A voice inside me tells me that I can try again despite the minor injury, that I could change my method in the crux move, use another finger, and that it should probably be okay for the other moves. I spend two sessions trying to regain good sensations, recalibrating the movements, and getting used to leading the beginning. To my great surprise, I manage to link the entire difficult section in one lead, albeit with great fear, because the potential fall is not only long but also possibly dangerous, which I find hard to estimate. Then, after a day of rest, I feel ready for some goes “A muerte"! That day, I put in a superb effort and fall at the crux from the ground. I feel quite close to sending it. Unfortunately, upon returning to the ground, I notice that I've severely torn my skin due to the crucial hold, that cursed mono-finger pocket, during my attempt, and I have a deep cut. Impossible to try again... So, I decide to take two days off and do everything to heal this wound as quickly as possible.

On March 19, 2024, I return to the crag after two days off. My motivation is at its peak; I'm eager to tackle the climb! My skin has more or less closed up, but I feel it won't hold for long. During warm-up, I test the move on a static rope, but I dare not try too hard as I feel the wound might open up directly. Well, at that moment, I know I might only get one shot. I'll have to give it my all! Before my attempt, I decide to put strong glue on my skin to protect the injury and prevent it from reopening until later. I'm feeling butterflies in my stomach; I'm stressed. I know it's possible, but I'll have to be good, to surpass myself! My preparation is meticulous; my rack is set up on my harness in detail. I leave nothing to chance and ensure that everything is optimized for my climb. There are many people at the crag (James Pearson has just arrived to work on a new project nearby), and the atmosphere is fantastic. But as I set off, everyone stops climbing and falls silent to watch my run; the tension is high. I give the last instructions to my belayer, James Taylor, an Englishman who came to work on the Voyage, and off I go!

I easily and quickly climb the first meters of the climb. I feel good and strong. After a few minutes of climbing, I'm already on the final rest; I make the last gear placement that I've worked on for a long time to execute it as best as possible. When I launch into the section, I am determined and ready to give it my all. The cheers grow louder and louder as I progress through the difficult and committing section. I'm at the crux now; I place my middle finger in that famous pocket and twist it to fit as best as possible. I can immediately feel all the glue coming off, and the hold attacking my flesh, but there's no time to dwell on it! I launch my body to the left and manage to grab the next hold with just my fingertips. And that's when the real battle begins. I know exactly what I have to do; I am precise in my movements, but I am in agony; with every move, I have to fight. My friends below are literally pushing me with their encouragement! There, I'm on the arete after a famous retreat during the most "delicate" movement in terms of commitment. Now I must remain focused, even though I know it's won. I make the last movements, shouting with joy! I did it! The relief and pleasure of reaching the top of this magnificent line overwhelm me.

Thanks to all those who helped and support me with this process: Soline, Jean-Elie, Mathieu (aka Michmich), James, Miguel, my parents Rico and Coco, Magali and Gilles, Tonio Rhode, James Taylor, Franco Cookson, Jacopo Larcher, and all the others… Thank you! An original film about the whole process and ascent is in preparation, stay tuned! [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4-cDCktU1p/

[2] https://fanatic-climbing.com/troisieme-ascension-de-bon-voyage-par-seb-berthe-3rd-ascent-of-bon-voyage-by-seb-berthe/

[3] https://www.8a.nu/news/sebastien-berthe-repeats-trad-test-piece-bon-voyage-iaaed

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C5VZpn3NWq7/

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXbnIz2yT8c

Le Voyage E10 Lead | flash 11th Apr 2023

It actually started pretty bad, on the very first move of the route I slipped...I took this good crimp, went for the crack and actually slipped and almost fell. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/sebastien_berthe_on_flashing_le_voyage_e10_7a-15132

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV4EO1mdXB0

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7BwDT4xrhE

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade