Original Route | VS Multi-pitch at Idwal Slabs

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H. E. L. Porter in the 1921 Ogwen Supplement:

Extremely difficult. Steep and exposed. Eighty feet of rope.

A magnificent climb is obtained by first taking 'Hope,' continuing up Holly Tree Wall, and finishing up a stretch of slabs of 150 feet on the right. The total height is nearly 800 feet. With the possible exception of the Grooved Arête, this is the finest addition to the Ogwen climbs since the book was published. The start is marked by a cairn to the left of and above the detached block at the top of 'Hope.' A steep and awkward twenty-foot pitch leads to a heather patch. A slab on the right is crossed to a small ledge with a belay above it. Twenty-five feet higher is the Holly Tree. The original route traverses to the left some twelve feet below the tree, the position being very exposed, until an adequate ledge is reached; on this trying section the second gives the leader moral support by ascending to the tree. Since then the chimney directly above the tree has been climbed; this route is safer, and probably not so difficult. The next pitch is steep and hard to start, but the holds are good at the top. In twenty feet a rocky bay is reached. A thirty-foot crack on the right leads to a terrace (cairn). Above this is a steep, shallow groove, the last twenty feet of which are very difficult, but can be avoided by taking to the arête on the left. From here a short upward walk to the right leads to a fine stretch of slabs, which afford interesting and not too arduous climbing. [1]

References

[1] Climbing in the Ogwen District Supplement (1921) /library/7280/climbing-in-the-ogwen-district-supplement