ReBirth | 8B Boulder problem at Kasagi

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Proposed grade '4-dan or harder' (8A+/8B or harder).

In the midstream area of Kasagi in Kyoto, there is a big boulder with a strikingly beautiful single crack running through it. This line has been passed down for more than ten years as one of Kasagi’s big projects.

The other day, I was able to stand atop it in a style close to my ideal: a first ascent done ground up, with no spotters and only the minimum number of pads needed to cover the exposed rock. There were hardly any signs that the line had been tried before, and according to local climbers it was considered a project, so I believe this is likely the first ascent.

I named the line ‘ReBirth,’ with the hope of contributing to the development of climbing culture and offering spiritual inspiration toward creative ascents.

At the top of the rock there is an old, rusted ring bolt that was placed in the past. After climbing the line, I felt that ideally I would like to remove it, but I decided to leave it as a relic marking the history of the crag.

(Translation: ChatGPT)

References

[1] https://www.climbing-net.com/news/倉上慶大、京都・笠置ボルダーrebirth初登/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWnvjuClijo/

References

[1] https://www.climbing-net.com/news/%e5%b0%8f%e8%a5%bf%e5%a4%a7%e4%bb%8b%e3%80%81%e4%ba%ac%e9%83%bd%e3%83%bb%e7%ac%a0%e7%bd%ae%e3%81%aerebirth%ef%bc%88%e5%9b%9b%e6%ae%b5%ef%bc%8f%e4%ba%94%e6%ae%b5%ef%bc%89%e3%82%92%e7%ac%ac3/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxGoj4Kcwr4

References

[1] https://www.climbing-net.com/news/%e5%b0%8f%e8%a5%bf%e5%a4%a7%e4%bb%8b%e3%80%81%e4%ba%ac%e9%83%bd%e3%83%bb%e7%ac%a0%e7%bd%ae%e3%81%aerebirth%ef%bc%88%e5%9b%9b%e6%ae%b5%ef%bc%8f%e4%ba%94%e6%ae%b5%ef%bc%89%e3%82%92%e7%ac%ac3/

Proposed grade V13/V14

References

[1] https://youtu.be/prsj2yDelFg

References

[1] https://youtu.be/prsj2yDelFg

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DS7KKUREnNJ/