Central Buttress | E1 Trad climb at Scafell Crag

First ascent.

First ascent.

When Herford and I in an inquisitive spirit, climbed up a grassy scoop leading out of Moss Gill onto the Central Buttress, we did not seriously believe that we should find a new climb on this rock face, for it appears to be singularly unbroken and almost vertical for over two-hundred feet. The Great Flake looked quite hopeless as a means of ascent and we dismissed the idea at once.

However, consideration of other climbs which lead up apparently impossible but actually feasible rocks, impressed on us the necessity of not judging by appearances, and we accordingly assured one another that there was still a chance. The Central Buttress climb as a whole is extremely interesting and the situation is absolutely unique. The Flake Crack excessively severe, the traverse and ascents on the upper wall are extraordinarily exposed, but the climbing is exceedingly enjoyable. [1]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/100-years-of-central-buttress-scafell