Central Buttress | E1 Trad climb at Scafell Crag

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When Herford and I in an inquisitive spirit, climbed up a grassy scoop leading out of Moss Gill onto the Central Buttress, we did not seriously believe that we should find a new climb on this rock face, for it appears to be singularly unbroken and almost vertical for over two-hundred feet. The Great Flake looked quite hopeless as a means of ascent and we dismissed the idea at once.

However, consideration of other climbs which lead up apparently impossible but actually feasible rocks, impressed on us the necessity of not judging by appearances, and we accordingly assured one another that there was still a chance. The Central Buttress climb as a whole is extremely interesting and the situation is absolutely unique. The Flake Crack excessively severe, the traverse and ascents on the upper wall are extraordinarily exposed, but the climbing is exceedingly enjoyable. [1]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/100-years-of-central-buttress-scafell

Led the Great Flake pitch.

Probably, being slimmer than former climbers, I got farther into the crack, and chimneyed it. I faced out, and think there was a small hold far up on the inside wall. Almost at once I felt the top of the Flake with the left hand. ‘I’ve got it!’ I said, thrilled with the realisation that the thing was virtually done, and there probably was not a happier woman living at that moment!

...Here CDF took the lead again, and just then we heard voices and came within sight of two men on Keswick Brothers, who asked with some interest what we were on. ‘Central Buttress: just got up the Flake,’ said my partner with careful indifference and just as his second appeared. There are moments when it is rather good fun to be a woman.

References

[1] Mabel Barker (1925) On Scawfell FRCC journal vol 7, no.1, p110 https://www.frcc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/simple-file-list/Journals/Journal-1925.pdf

[2] https://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/central-buttress-scafell/

References

[1] https://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2015/11/a-black-rainbow-life-and-times-of.html

First female free ascent