Nirvana | 8A+ Boulder problem

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First ascent.

Frankly, in the first sessions, I had the impression that it was impossible. Fortunately, Guillaume Joubert had been there to show that it was feasible. Still, I don't understand how he could rate this 8A/+. For me, it is undoubtedly 8B, even without taking into account the notions of height and danger.

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I knew I wasn’t ready. I estimated my chances of falling at around two out of three, which is not enough for a block of this type. Plus, even though I had unlocked the moves, I hadn't yet managed to rope from the ground. At the same time, I was also afraid of not finding the motivation to start the process from scratch next season. I had 20 crash pads and two good spotters with Fabien and Simon. We placed them at the foot of the boulder, and I told myself that a fall in the main crux would be scary but probably not dangerous in the event of a good save. As for recovery, I knew how to do it, I just had to trust myself. So I decided to give it a try. [1]

References

[1] https://www.grimper.com/news-aubin-salmon-libere-highball-exceptionnel-fontainebleau