Change Log | Climbing History

	Date	Time	User	Type	Name	Attribute
1	1st January 2025	22:37:42	Mattsparksy	-	-	rock_type
Before `None` After `Sandstone`
2	1st January 2025	22:37:42	Mattsparksy	-	-	rock_type_id
Before `None` After `12`
3	17th February 2024	08:14:07	remus	climb	Big John	notes_pretty
Before <blockquote> <p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a>. Not many routes compare. </p> <p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p> <p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p> After <blockquote> <p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a>. Not many routes compare. </p> <p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationally up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p> <p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p>
4	17th February 2024	08:14:07	remus	climb	Big John	notes
Before > Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. > Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m). > Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1] ### References [1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989) After > Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. > Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationally up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m). > Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1] ### References [1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,6 +1,6 @@ > Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. -> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m). +> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationally up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m). > Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]
5	17th February 2024	08:13:04	remus	climb	Big John	notes_pretty
Before <blockquote> <p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. </p> <p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p> <p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p> After <blockquote> <p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a>. Not many routes compare. </p> <p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p> <p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p>
6	17th February 2024	08:13:04	remus	climb	Big John	notes
Before > Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. > Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m). > Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1] ### References [1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989) After > Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. > Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m). > Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1] ### References [1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -> Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. +> Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. > Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).
7	17th February 2024	08:12:32	remus	climb	Big John	notes_pretty
Before `None` After <blockquote> <p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. </p> <p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p> <p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p> </blockquote> <h3>References</h3> <p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p>
8	17th February 2024	08:12:32	remus	climb	Big John	notes
Before `None` After > Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. > Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m). > Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1] ### References [1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989) Diff --- before +++ after @@ -1 +1,9 @@ - +> Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. + +> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m). + +> Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1] + +### References + +[1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989)
9	17th February 2024	08:04:35	remus	climb	Big John	climb_type
Before `None` After `3`
10	17th February 2024	08:04:35	remus	climb	Big John	climb_name
Before `None` After `Big John`
11	17th February 2024	08:04:35	remus	climb	Big John	grade_id
Before `None` After `58`
12	17th February 2024	08:04:35	remus	climb	Big John	ukc_url
Before `None` After `https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/st_johns_head-3034/big_john-128592`
13	23rd November 2022	10:09:32	remus	climb	Longhope Route Direct	-
Before `None` After `None`
14	22nd November 2022	19:01:18	remus	climb	Longhope Route	-
Before `None` After `None`
15	9th February 2021	07:40:46	remus	climb	Longhope Route Direct	-
Before `None` After `None`

Before

None

After

Sandstone

Before

None

After

12

Before

<blockquote>
<p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a>. Not many routes compare. </p>
<p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p>
<p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p>

After

<blockquote>
<p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a>. Not many routes compare. </p>
<p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationally up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p>
<p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p>

Before

> Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. 

> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).

> Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]

### References

[1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989)

After

> Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. 

> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationally up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).

> Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]

### References

[1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989)

Diff

--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,6 +1,6 @@

 > Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. 
 
-> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).
+> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationally up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).
 
 > Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]

Before

<blockquote>
<p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. </p>
<p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p>
<p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p>

After

<blockquote>
<p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a>. Not many routes compare. </p>
<p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p>
<p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p>

Before

> Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. 

> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).

> Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]

### References

[1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989)

After

> Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. 

> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).

> Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]

### References

[1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989)

Diff

--- before

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@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@

-> Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. 
+> Takes the soaring arete to the left of [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route). Not many routes compare. 
 
 > Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).

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<blockquote>
<p>Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. </p>
<p>Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on <a href="/climb/2212/longhope-route">Longhope Route</a> (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).</p>
<p>Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989">Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989</a></p>

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> Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. 

> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).

> Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]

### References

[1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989)

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+> Takes the soaring arete to the left of Longhope Route. Not many routes compare. 
+
+> Start on the left-hand side of the grass slope at the base of the cliff. Climb grass to a tangle of ropes beneath the centre of the upper wall. Belay at the top of a rope hanging down a rock wall (l44m). Climb a slabby wall trending right to a ledge then back left to grassy ledges level with the base of the 4b chimney on [Longhope Route](/climb/2212/longhope-route) (45m, 5b). Traverse horizontally left for 22m and climb up and back slightly right for 23m to a stance below the prominent overhanging flake crack leading up left to the arete (45m, 4c). Climb to a ledge at the start of the flake crack (23m, 4c). Layback the overhanging flake and struggle sensationa lly up the upper flake to a small  corner ledge (26m, 5c). Continue in the same line up the corner to a ledge on the arete beneath a prominent overhang (16m, 5b). Trend leftwards round the overhang and  follow a vague fault line to a ledge after 29m. Move right along this to the arete, surmount an overhang, and gain a ledge (38m, 5b). Climb a difficult but well protected crack on the right-hand side of the arete to a ledge. Traverse this round to the left side of the arete to belay where two large block5 have dropped from the overhang above about 12m left of the arete (29m, 6a). Pull over the overhang and climb direct for 6m to a traverse crack. Follow this rightwards to a ledge just left of the arete. Move up via two dubious undercut flakes and use a very poor peg in a poorly protected position to gain a ledge (32m, 5c). Climb a delicate wall on the left to gain a shallow groove leading to a ledge. Climb the short chimney above to a further ledge and belay below an over hang on the left (32m, 5b). Surmount the overhang in the fault line, easier to the top (27m).
+
+> Descent was by grassy slopes and a short rock step about 400m north of St John's Head, i.e. the other way from the Old Man. [1]
+
+### References
+
+[1] [Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal 180 1989](/library/7086/smcj-number-180---vol-34---1989)

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Big John

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https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/st_johns_head-3034/big_john-128592

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Change Log for St Johns Head

Overview

15

9th Feb 2021

1st Jan 2025

Log

Page 1