Change Log for Giggleswick

Overview

Total Changes

35

First Change

29th Dec 2020

Last Change

15th Apr 2025

Log

Date Time User Type Name Attribute
21 22nd December 2023 18:01:01 remus climb Violent New Breed notes
Before
(Interview in On the Edge?) > John Gaskins completed Violent New Breed (9a+, or 5.15a) at the G-Spot, in Gigleswick, England. Gaskins bolted the route in 1993 and worked on it for the following two summers; in 1995, he spent roughly 50 days traying to master it. 1996 looked to be the year of the redpoint, until Gaskins discovered that one of the holds, a subtly glued-back-on crimp, had been knocked off, with the words "Tut tut" chalked onto the crag, and lost interest. In 2000, he returned, and bested the move without the edge. In 2004, Gaskins redpointed the bouldery 20-foot line. > Writes Gaskins: "it is comfortably harder than [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) ."
After
[Simon Panton](/climber/1134/simon-panton), from an interview with [John Gaskins](/climber/148/john-gaskins): > The G-Spot is a small, steep sector of [Giggleswick Scar](/crag/604/giggleswick-south, set away from the main crag. You may have visited it to do Harry Tuttle F7b+ or Militia F8a+, and perhaps you noticed the absurd looking project line just right of Harry Tuttle. This project has a rather intriguing history. It was first bolted by [John [Gaskins]](/climber/148/john-gaskins) in '93. During the summer of '94, whilst working on [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble), John made a number of visits, beginning the process of move familiarisation that precedes a hard redpoint. Early in '95 one of the key holds on the crux section broke off in John's hand. Luckily his brother Tim, who was belaying, tracked the trajectory of the departing hold to the ground. The hold was retrieved and the decision was made to glue it back in place. Throughout '95 John spent 40-50 days attempting the line, finally falling off going for the finishing ledge late in the year. Throughout the winter of '95/'96 John trained hard, specifically focusing on replica moves of the project which John felt certain would be 9a. In march '96, he returned to the G-spot , spending more time reaccquaintinghimself with complexities of the movement over a three to four week period. Then, one day in early April as John arrived at the crag, he was greeted by a curious site. A large chalk arrow had been drawn on the rock, The arrow pointed to the top crmp that John had previously reinforced with glue. The words 'Tut tut' had also been written next to the hold in chalk. As John pulled up the rope to inspect the crimp, he realised to his horror that the main part of the hold had disappeared. ### References [1] *On The Edge 120*, page 52.
Diff
--- before

+++ after

@@ -1,5 +1,7 @@

-(Interview in On the Edge?)
+[Simon Panton](/climber/1134/simon-panton), from an interview with [John Gaskins](/climber/148/john-gaskins):

-> John Gaskins completed Violent New Breed (9a+, or 5.15a) at the G-Spot, in Gigleswick, England. Gaskins bolted the route in 1993 and worked on it for the following two summers; in 1995, he spent roughly 50 days traying to master it. 1996 looked to be the year of the redpoint, until Gaskins discovered that one of the holds, a subtly glued-back-on crimp, had been knocked off, with the words "Tut tut" chalked onto the crag, and lost interest. In 2000, he returned, and bested the move without the edge. In 2004, Gaskins redpointed the bouldery 20-foot line.
+> The G-Spot is a small, steep sector of [Giggleswick Scar](/crag/604/giggleswick-south, set away from the main crag. You may have visited it to do Harry Tuttle F7b+ or Militia F8a+, and perhaps you noticed the absurd looking project line just right of Harry Tuttle. This project has a rather intriguing history. It was first bolted by [John [Gaskins]](/climber/148/john-gaskins) in '93. During the summer of '94, whilst working on [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble), John made a number of visits, beginning the process of move familiarisation that precedes a hard redpoint. Early in '95 one of the key holds on the crux section broke off in John's hand. Luckily his brother Tim, who was belaying, tracked the trajectory of the departing hold to the ground. The hold was retrieved and the decision was made to glue it back in place. Throughout '95 John spent 40-50 days attempting the line, finally falling off going for the finishing ledge late in the year. Throughout the winter of '95/'96 John trained hard, specifically focusing on replica moves of the project which John felt certain would be 9a. In march '96, he returned to the G-spot , spending more time reaccquaintinghimself with complexities of the movement over a three to four week period. Then, one day in early April as John arrived at the crag, he was greeted by a curious site. A large chalk arrow had been drawn on the rock, The arrow pointed to the top crmp that John had previously reinforced with glue. The words 'Tut tut' had also been written next to the hold in chalk. As John pulled up the rope to inspect the crimp, he realised to his horror that the main part of the hold had disappeared.

-> Writes Gaskins: "it is comfortably harder than [Hubble](/climb/5/hubble) ."
+### References
+
+[1] *On The Edge 120*, page 52.
22 20th November 2023 18:54:16 remus climb Militia climb_name
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Militia
23 20th November 2023 18:54:16 remus climb Militia ukc_url
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https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/giggleswick_south-604/militia-12868
24 20th November 2023 18:54:16 remus climb Militia climb_type
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1
25 20th November 2023 18:54:16 remus climb Militia grade_id
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14
26 5th July 2022 11:42:54 remus climb Violent New Breed -
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27 5th July 2022 11:42:06 remus climb Violent New Breed -
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28 4th July 2021 18:24:21 remus climb Accelerator -
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29 5th May 2021 18:20:20 remus climb Kleptomania -
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30 5th May 2021 18:18:27 remus climb Kleptomania -
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31 16th February 2021 14:55:28 remus climb King of Thieves -
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32 15th February 2021 23:23:39 remus climb Tonto -
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33 5th February 2021 14:36:38 remus climb Violent New Breed -
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34 5th February 2021 14:35:08 remus climb Violent New Breed -
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35 29th December 2020 09:21:05 remus climb Violent New Breed -
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