| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 11th October 2024 | 09:48:41 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664">https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664</a></p>
After
<p><a href="/climber/2439/keith-sutcliffe">Keith Sutcliffe</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>When it came to leading it he had the peg in his teeth ready to place but found with no rope in the crack he could get better jams so had no need to place it and just carried on.</p>
<p>The chock was placed later on by others. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664">https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 2 | 11th October 2024 | 09:48:41 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | notes | |
|
Before
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664](https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664)
After
[Keith Sutcliffe](/climber/2439/keith-sutcliffe):
> When it came to leading it he had the peg in his teeth ready to place but found with no rope in the crack he could get better jams so had no need to place it and just carried on.
> The chock was placed later on by others. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664](https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1,9 @@
+[Keith Sutcliffe](/climber/2439/keith-sutcliffe):
+
+> When it came to leading it he had the peg in his teeth ready to place but found with no rope in the crack he could get better jams so had no need to place it and just carried on.
+
+> The chock was placed later on by others. [1]
+
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664](https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664)
|
|||||||
| 3 | 11th October 2024 | 09:37:34 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
1
After
3
|
|||||||
| 4 | 11th October 2024 | 09:37:34 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664">https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 5 | 11th October 2024 | 09:37:34 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664](https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,3 @@
-
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664](https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/goliath_-_burbage_south-320366?v=1#x4728664)
|
|||||||
| 6 | 11th October 2024 | 09:35:08 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 7 | 11th October 2024 | 09:35:08 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 8 | 11th October 2024 | 09:35:08 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | fa | |
|
Before
false
After
true
|
|||||||
| 9 | 11th October 2024 | 09:35:08 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
730
|
|||||||
| 10 | 11th October 2024 | 09:35:08 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
3995
|
|||||||
| 11 | 11th October 2024 | 09:35:08 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
None
After
1960-01-01
|
|||||||
| 12 | 11th October 2024 | 09:35:08 | remus | ascent | Sentinel Crack | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
None
After
1959-01-01
|
|||||||
| 13 | 22nd September 2024 | 17:09:50 | remus | ascent | Cemetry Gates | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>In Don's later years he and <a href="/climber/612/joe-brown">Joe Brown</a> went back to repeat the route together.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4</a>.</p>
After
<p>In Don's later years he and <a href="/climber/612/joe-brown">Joe Brown</a> went back to repeat the route together.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4</a>.</p>
|
|||||||
| 14 | 22nd September 2024 | 17:09:50 | remus | ascent | Cemetry Gates | notes | |
|
Before
In Don's later years he and [Joe Brown](/climber/612/joe-brown) went back to repeat the route together.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4).
After
In Don's later years he and [Joe Brown](/climber/612/joe-brown) went back to repeat the route together.
### References
[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4).
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1,5 @@
In Don's later years he and [Joe Brown](/climber/612/joe-brown) went back to repeat the route together.
-[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4).
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4).
|
|||||||
| 15 | 22nd September 2024 | 17:01:52 | remus | - | - | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I loved Don. I never saw him be mean-spirited, though I did know he drank and had his frustrations. He was especially intolerant of people who overrated themselves or simply did not know what they were talking about. I respected that quality in him, although he could have tempered his opinions, certainly, at times. I don't think I ever saw him get wrankled with someone who didn't deserve it. </p>
<p>He was incredibly funny, incredibly brilliant, not -- in my opinion -- a tragic figure. I saw greatness. I mean, think of all he achieved, the successes run through memory, glimpses of deep winter with Haston on the Eiger Direct, or on various mountains of the Himalaya, such as Annapurna. </p>
<p>He was like <a href="/climber/612/joe-brown">Joe [Brown]</a> in that, coming from a rock climbing background, it was astonishing he could switch to mountaineering as though it were nothing. In younger years, he and Joe were in their element and climbed so beautifully, so boldly, with such limited gear they mostly invented as they went along. Sure, like all of us, he had his challenges and his imperfections, had some personal trials. He wasn't about to be pushed around. </p>
<p>Not so many will deserve a wonderful biography by a wonderful author. I climbed with Don in Eldorado in 1966, when Royal brought him to America. He ran out one difficult pitch on sight, nothing to it.... We hit it off. After his visit to Yosemite, where he walked up the Crack of Doom with Pratt, followed the difficult off-width on Crack of Despair, and showed that, even out of shape, he could climb with the best of them, Don returned to see me in Colorado. He gave me the small gift of some British coins that were of no use in America. I still have those, still cherish them and his memory. Some 18 years later, when I was guest speaker at the Buxton conference, I was sitting at a mirror backstage, and he suddenly was standing behind me. He took me for a shandy, and we talked and laughed. He was, by the way, one of the stars of that conference, dressing up like a woman. </p>
<p>He could have fun. Life is short. Few, at least in the climbing world (but perhaps in any world) will -- at the end -- be able to say they did as much with their time and accomplished as much as Don Whillans. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/984/bernard-tamworth">Bernard Tamworth</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I went to the Dolomites with Don in July 1985. We climbed a pinnacle near Lecco called 'Il sigaro' which was a grade 5.8 on UIAA scale - about HVS. This was a 4 pitch climb with an abseil off the top. The crux was 10 feet from the summit - a sloping ledge with a bulge pushing you onto your left foot. Don lead this part and overcame the obstacle with a bit of puffing and panting. It was a honour to be the last person to climb with Don. We spent over 2 weeks together in the Dolomites, travelling down on motor bikes. unlike some of the stories, I found Don easy to get on with as long as you were upfront with him and gave him no bulls**t!!! I think I was the only person to ever owe money to Don. He lent me 100 french francs for petrol on the way back, but unfortunately he died before I could pay him back!! [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/984/bernard-tamworth">Bernard Tamworth</a>, comment on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4">Don Whillains' Last Climb</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372</a></p>
<p>[4] With <a href="/climber/729/chris-bonnington">Chris Bonnington</a> on the Central Pillar of Freney <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/</a></p>
<p>[5] With <a href="/climber/698/joe-brown">Joe Brown</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/">https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/</a></p>
<p>[6] Interview with <a href="/climber/1012/ken-wilson">Ken Wilson</a> 1972, <em>Mountain</em> Issue 20, page 24</p>
After
<p><a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I loved Don. I never saw him be mean-spirited, though I did know he drank and had his frustrations. He was especially intolerant of people who overrated themselves or simply did not know what they were talking about. I respected that quality in him, although he could have tempered his opinions, certainly, at times. I don't think I ever saw him get wrankled with someone who didn't deserve it. </p>
<p>He was incredibly funny, incredibly brilliant, not -- in my opinion -- a tragic figure. I saw greatness. I mean, think of all he achieved, the successes run through memory, glimpses of deep winter with Haston on the Eiger Direct, or on various mountains of the Himalaya, such as Annapurna. </p>
<p>He was like <a href="/climber/612/joe-brown">Joe [Brown]</a> in that, coming from a rock climbing background, it was astonishing he could switch to mountaineering as though it were nothing. In younger years, he and Joe were in their element and climbed so beautifully, so boldly, with such limited gear they mostly invented as they went along. Sure, like all of us, he had his challenges and his imperfections, had some personal trials. He wasn't about to be pushed around. </p>
<p>Not so many will deserve a wonderful biography by a wonderful author. I climbed with Don in Eldorado in 1966, when Royal brought him to America. He ran out one difficult pitch on sight, nothing to it.... We hit it off. After his visit to Yosemite, where he walked up the Crack of Doom with Pratt, followed the difficult off-width on Crack of Despair, and showed that, even out of shape, he could climb with the best of them, Don returned to see me in Colorado. He gave me the small gift of some British coins that were of no use in America. I still have those, still cherish them and his memory. Some 18 years later, when I was guest speaker at the Buxton conference, I was sitting at a mirror backstage, and he suddenly was standing behind me. He took me for a shandy, and we talked and laughed. He was, by the way, one of the stars of that conference, dressing up like a woman. </p>
<p>He could have fun. Life is short. Few, at least in the climbing world (but perhaps in any world) will -- at the end -- be able to say they did as much with their time and accomplished as much as Don Whillans. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/984/bernard-tamworth">Bernard Tamworth</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I went to the Dolomites with Don in July 1985. We climbed a pinnacle near Lecco called 'Il sigaro' which was a grade 5.8 on UIAA scale - about HVS. This was a 4 pitch climb with an abseil off the top. The crux was 10 feet from the summit - a sloping ledge with a bulge pushing you onto your left foot. Don lead this part and overcame the obstacle with a bit of puffing and panting. It was a honour to be the last person to climb with Don. We spent over 2 weeks together in the Dolomites, travelling down on motor bikes. unlike some of the stories, I found Don easy to get on with as long as you were upfront with him and gave him no bulls**t!!! I think I was the only person to ever owe money to Don. He lent me 100 french francs for petrol on the way back, but unfortunately he died before I could pay him back!! [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/984/bernard-tamworth">Bernard Tamworth</a>, comment on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4">Don Whillains' Last Climb</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372</a></p>
<p>[4] With <a href="/climber/729/chris-bonnington">Chris Bonnington</a> on the Central Pillar of Freney <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/</a></p>
<p>[5] With <a href="/climber/698/joe-brown">Joe Brown</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/">https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/</a></p>
<p>[6] Interview with <a href="/climber/1012/ken-wilson">Ken Wilson</a> 1972, <em>Mountain</em> Issue 20, page 24 <a href="/file/eaff6c84-b054-0d0c-220a-a00119bdff3a/whillans%20wilson%20interview.html">https://climbing-history.org/file/eaff6c84-b054-0d0c-220a-a00119bdff3a/whillans%20wilson%20interview.html</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 16 | 22nd September 2024 | 17:01:52 | remus | - | - | notes | |
|
Before
[Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament):
> I loved Don. I never saw him be mean-spirited, though I did know he drank and had his frustrations. He was especially intolerant of people who overrated themselves or simply did not know what they were talking about. I respected that quality in him, although he could have tempered his opinions, certainly, at times. I don't think I ever saw him get wrankled with someone who didn't deserve it.
> He was incredibly funny, incredibly brilliant, not -- in my opinion -- a tragic figure. I saw greatness. I mean, think of all he achieved, the successes run through memory, glimpses of deep winter with Haston on the Eiger Direct, or on various mountains of the Himalaya, such as Annapurna.
> He was like [Joe [Brown]](/climber/612/joe-brown) in that, coming from a rock climbing background, it was astonishing he could switch to mountaineering as though it were nothing. In younger years, he and Joe were in their element and climbed so beautifully, so boldly, with such limited gear they mostly invented as they went along. Sure, like all of us, he had his challenges and his imperfections, had some personal trials. He wasn't about to be pushed around.
> Not so many will deserve a wonderful biography by a wonderful author. I climbed with Don in Eldorado in 1966, when Royal brought him to America. He ran out one difficult pitch on sight, nothing to it.... We hit it off. After his visit to Yosemite, where he walked up the Crack of Doom with Pratt, followed the difficult off-width on Crack of Despair, and showed that, even out of shape, he could climb with the best of them, Don returned to see me in Colorado. He gave me the small gift of some British coins that were of no use in America. I still have those, still cherish them and his memory. Some 18 years later, when I was guest speaker at the Buxton conference, I was sitting at a mirror backstage, and he suddenly was standing behind me. He took me for a shandy, and we talked and laughed. He was, by the way, one of the stars of that conference, dressing up like a woman.
>He could have fun. Life is short. Few, at least in the climbing world (but perhaps in any world) will -- at the end -- be able to say they did as much with their time and accomplished as much as Don Whillans. [2]
[Bernard Tamworth](/climber/984/bernard-tamworth):
> I went to the Dolomites with Don in July 1985. We climbed a pinnacle near Lecco called 'Il sigaro' which was a grade 5.8 on UIAA scale - about HVS. This was a 4 pitch climb with an abseil off the top. The crux was 10 feet from the summit - a sloping ledge with a bulge pushing you onto your left foot. Don lead this part and overcame the obstacle with a bit of puffing and panting. It was a honour to be the last person to climb with Don. We spent over 2 weeks together in the Dolomites, travelling down on motor bikes. unlike some of the stories, I found Don easy to get on with as long as you were upfront with him and gave him no bulls**t!!! I think I was the only person to ever owe money to Don. He lent me 100 french francs for petrol on the way back, but unfortunately he died before I could pay him back!! [1]
### References
[1] [Bernard Tamworth](/climber/984/bernard-tamworth), comment on [Don Whillains' Last Climb](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578)
[3] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372)
[4] With [Chris Bonnington](/climber/729/chris-bonnington) on the Central Pillar of Freney [https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/)
[5] With [Joe Brown](/climber/698/joe-brown) [https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/](https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/)
[6] Interview with [Ken Wilson](/climber/1012/ken-wilson) 1972, *Mountain* Issue 20, page 24
After
[Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament):
> I loved Don. I never saw him be mean-spirited, though I did know he drank and had his frustrations. He was especially intolerant of people who overrated themselves or simply did not know what they were talking about. I respected that quality in him, although he could have tempered his opinions, certainly, at times. I don't think I ever saw him get wrankled with someone who didn't deserve it.
> He was incredibly funny, incredibly brilliant, not -- in my opinion -- a tragic figure. I saw greatness. I mean, think of all he achieved, the successes run through memory, glimpses of deep winter with Haston on the Eiger Direct, or on various mountains of the Himalaya, such as Annapurna.
> He was like [Joe [Brown]](/climber/612/joe-brown) in that, coming from a rock climbing background, it was astonishing he could switch to mountaineering as though it were nothing. In younger years, he and Joe were in their element and climbed so beautifully, so boldly, with such limited gear they mostly invented as they went along. Sure, like all of us, he had his challenges and his imperfections, had some personal trials. He wasn't about to be pushed around.
> Not so many will deserve a wonderful biography by a wonderful author. I climbed with Don in Eldorado in 1966, when Royal brought him to America. He ran out one difficult pitch on sight, nothing to it.... We hit it off. After his visit to Yosemite, where he walked up the Crack of Doom with Pratt, followed the difficult off-width on Crack of Despair, and showed that, even out of shape, he could climb with the best of them, Don returned to see me in Colorado. He gave me the small gift of some British coins that were of no use in America. I still have those, still cherish them and his memory. Some 18 years later, when I was guest speaker at the Buxton conference, I was sitting at a mirror backstage, and he suddenly was standing behind me. He took me for a shandy, and we talked and laughed. He was, by the way, one of the stars of that conference, dressing up like a woman.
>He could have fun. Life is short. Few, at least in the climbing world (but perhaps in any world) will -- at the end -- be able to say they did as much with their time and accomplished as much as Don Whillans. [2]
[Bernard Tamworth](/climber/984/bernard-tamworth):
> I went to the Dolomites with Don in July 1985. We climbed a pinnacle near Lecco called 'Il sigaro' which was a grade 5.8 on UIAA scale - about HVS. This was a 4 pitch climb with an abseil off the top. The crux was 10 feet from the summit - a sloping ledge with a bulge pushing you onto your left foot. Don lead this part and overcame the obstacle with a bit of puffing and panting. It was a honour to be the last person to climb with Don. We spent over 2 weeks together in the Dolomites, travelling down on motor bikes. unlike some of the stories, I found Don easy to get on with as long as you were upfront with him and gave him no bulls**t!!! I think I was the only person to ever owe money to Don. He lent me 100 french francs for petrol on the way back, but unfortunately he died before I could pay him back!! [1]
### References
[1] [Bernard Tamworth](/climber/984/bernard-tamworth), comment on [Don Whillains' Last Climb](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578)
[3] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372)
[4] With [Chris Bonnington](/climber/729/chris-bonnington) on the Central Pillar of Freney [https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/)
[5] With [Joe Brown](/climber/698/joe-brown) [https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/](https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/)
[6] Interview with [Ken Wilson](/climber/1012/ken-wilson) 1972, *Mountain* Issue 20, page 24 [https://climbing-history.org/file/eaff6c84-b054-0d0c-220a-a00119bdff3a/whillans%20wilson%20interview.html](/file/eaff6c84-b054-0d0c-220a-a00119bdff3a/whillans%20wilson%20interview.html)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -26,4 +26,4 @@
[5] With [Joe Brown](/climber/698/joe-brown) [https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/](https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/)
-[6] Interview with [Ken Wilson](/climber/1012/ken-wilson) 1972, *Mountain* Issue 20, page 24
+[6] Interview with [Ken Wilson](/climber/1012/ken-wilson) 1972, *Mountain* Issue 20, page 24 [https://climbing-history.org/file/eaff6c84-b054-0d0c-220a-a00119bdff3a/whillans%20wilson%20interview.html](/file/eaff6c84-b054-0d0c-220a-a00119bdff3a/whillans%20wilson%20interview.html)
|
|||||||
| 17 | 22nd September 2024 | 15:42:57 | remus | - | - | notes | |
|
Before
[Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament):
> I loved Don. I never saw him be mean-spirited, though I did know he drank and had his frustrations. He was especially intolerant of people who overrated themselves or simply did not know what they were talking about. I respected that quality in him, although he could have tempered his opinions, certainly, at times. I don't think I ever saw him get wrankled with someone who didn't deserve it.
> He was incredibly funny, incredibly brilliant, not -- in my opinion -- a tragic figure. I saw greatness. I mean, think of all he achieved, the successes run through memory, glimpses of deep winter with Haston on the Eiger Direct, or on various mountains of the Himalaya, such as Annapurna.
> He was like [Joe [Brown]](/climber/612/joe-brown) in that, coming from a rock climbing background, it was astonishing he could switch to mountaineering as though it were nothing. In younger years, he and Joe were in their element and climbed so beautifully, so boldly, with such limited gear they mostly invented as they went along. Sure, like all of us, he had his challenges and his imperfections, had some personal trials. He wasn't about to be pushed around.
> Not so many will deserve a wonderful biography by a wonderful author. I climbed with Don in Eldorado in 1966, when Royal brought him to America. He ran out one difficult pitch on sight, nothing to it.... We hit it off. After his visit to Yosemite, where he walked up the Crack of Doom with Pratt, followed the difficult off-width on Crack of Despair, and showed that, even out of shape, he could climb with the best of them, Don returned to see me in Colorado. He gave me the small gift of some British coins that were of no use in America. I still have those, still cherish them and his memory. Some 18 years later, when I was guest speaker at the Buxton conference, I was sitting at a mirror backstage, and he suddenly was standing behind me. He took me for a shandy, and we talked and laughed. He was, by the way, one of the stars of that conference, dressing up like a woman.
>He could have fun. Life is short. Few, at least in the climbing world (but perhaps in any world) will -- at the end -- be able to say they did as much with their time and accomplished as much as Don Whillans. [2]
[Bernard Tamworth](/climber/984/bernard-tamworth):
> I went to the Dolomites with Don in July 1985. We climbed a pinnacle near Lecco called 'Il sigaro' which was a grade 5.8 on UIAA scale - about HVS. This was a 4 pitch climb with an abseil off the top. The crux was 10 feet from the summit - a sloping ledge with a bulge pushing you onto your left foot. Don lead this part and overcame the obstacle with a bit of puffing and panting. It was a honour to be the last person to climb with Don. We spent over 2 weeks together in the Dolomites, travelling down on motor bikes. unlike some of the stories, I found Don easy to get on with as long as you were upfront with him and gave him no bulls**t!!! I think I was the only person to ever owe money to Don. He lent me 100 french francs for petrol on the way back, but unfortunately he died before I could pay him back!! [1]
### References
[1] [Bernard Tamworth](/climber/984/bernard-tamworth), comment on [Don Whillains' Last Climb](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578)
[3] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372)
[4] With [Chris Bonnington](/climber/729/chris-bonnington) on the Central Pillar of Freney [https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/)
[5] With [Joe Brown](/climber/698/joe-brown) [https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/](https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/)
After
[Pat Ament](/climber/1099/pat-ament):
> I loved Don. I never saw him be mean-spirited, though I did know he drank and had his frustrations. He was especially intolerant of people who overrated themselves or simply did not know what they were talking about. I respected that quality in him, although he could have tempered his opinions, certainly, at times. I don't think I ever saw him get wrankled with someone who didn't deserve it.
> He was incredibly funny, incredibly brilliant, not -- in my opinion -- a tragic figure. I saw greatness. I mean, think of all he achieved, the successes run through memory, glimpses of deep winter with Haston on the Eiger Direct, or on various mountains of the Himalaya, such as Annapurna.
> He was like [Joe [Brown]](/climber/612/joe-brown) in that, coming from a rock climbing background, it was astonishing he could switch to mountaineering as though it were nothing. In younger years, he and Joe were in their element and climbed so beautifully, so boldly, with such limited gear they mostly invented as they went along. Sure, like all of us, he had his challenges and his imperfections, had some personal trials. He wasn't about to be pushed around.
> Not so many will deserve a wonderful biography by a wonderful author. I climbed with Don in Eldorado in 1966, when Royal brought him to America. He ran out one difficult pitch on sight, nothing to it.... We hit it off. After his visit to Yosemite, where he walked up the Crack of Doom with Pratt, followed the difficult off-width on Crack of Despair, and showed that, even out of shape, he could climb with the best of them, Don returned to see me in Colorado. He gave me the small gift of some British coins that were of no use in America. I still have those, still cherish them and his memory. Some 18 years later, when I was guest speaker at the Buxton conference, I was sitting at a mirror backstage, and he suddenly was standing behind me. He took me for a shandy, and we talked and laughed. He was, by the way, one of the stars of that conference, dressing up like a woman.
>He could have fun. Life is short. Few, at least in the climbing world (but perhaps in any world) will -- at the end -- be able to say they did as much with their time and accomplished as much as Don Whillans. [2]
[Bernard Tamworth](/climber/984/bernard-tamworth):
> I went to the Dolomites with Don in July 1985. We climbed a pinnacle near Lecco called 'Il sigaro' which was a grade 5.8 on UIAA scale - about HVS. This was a 4 pitch climb with an abseil off the top. The crux was 10 feet from the summit - a sloping ledge with a bulge pushing you onto your left foot. Don lead this part and overcame the obstacle with a bit of puffing and panting. It was a honour to be the last person to climb with Don. We spent over 2 weeks together in the Dolomites, travelling down on motor bikes. unlike some of the stories, I found Don easy to get on with as long as you were upfront with him and gave him no bulls**t!!! I think I was the only person to ever owe money to Don. He lent me 100 french francs for petrol on the way back, but unfortunately he died before I could pay him back!! [1]
### References
[1] [Bernard Tamworth](/climber/984/bernard-tamworth), comment on [Don Whillains' Last Climb](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4)
[2] [https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578](https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578)
[3] [https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372](https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372)
[4] With [Chris Bonnington](/climber/729/chris-bonnington) on the Central Pillar of Freney [https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/)
[5] With [Joe Brown](/climber/698/joe-brown) [https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/](https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/)
[6] Interview with [Ken Wilson](/climber/1012/ken-wilson) 1972, *Mountain* Issue 20, page 24
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -24,4 +24,6 @@
[4] With [Chris Bonnington](/climber/729/chris-bonnington) on the Central Pillar of Freney [https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/)
-[5] With [Joe Brown](/climber/698/joe-brown) [https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/](https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/)
+[5] With [Joe Brown](/climber/698/joe-brown) [https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/](https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/)
+
+[6] Interview with [Ken Wilson](/climber/1012/ken-wilson) 1972, *Mountain* Issue 20, page 24
|
|||||||
| 18 | 22nd September 2024 | 15:42:57 | remus | - | - | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I loved Don. I never saw him be mean-spirited, though I did know he drank and had his frustrations. He was especially intolerant of people who overrated themselves or simply did not know what they were talking about. I respected that quality in him, although he could have tempered his opinions, certainly, at times. I don't think I ever saw him get wrankled with someone who didn't deserve it. </p>
<p>He was incredibly funny, incredibly brilliant, not -- in my opinion -- a tragic figure. I saw greatness. I mean, think of all he achieved, the successes run through memory, glimpses of deep winter with Haston on the Eiger Direct, or on various mountains of the Himalaya, such as Annapurna. </p>
<p>He was like <a href="/climber/612/joe-brown">Joe [Brown]</a> in that, coming from a rock climbing background, it was astonishing he could switch to mountaineering as though it were nothing. In younger years, he and Joe were in their element and climbed so beautifully, so boldly, with such limited gear they mostly invented as they went along. Sure, like all of us, he had his challenges and his imperfections, had some personal trials. He wasn't about to be pushed around. </p>
<p>Not so many will deserve a wonderful biography by a wonderful author. I climbed with Don in Eldorado in 1966, when Royal brought him to America. He ran out one difficult pitch on sight, nothing to it.... We hit it off. After his visit to Yosemite, where he walked up the Crack of Doom with Pratt, followed the difficult off-width on Crack of Despair, and showed that, even out of shape, he could climb with the best of them, Don returned to see me in Colorado. He gave me the small gift of some British coins that were of no use in America. I still have those, still cherish them and his memory. Some 18 years later, when I was guest speaker at the Buxton conference, I was sitting at a mirror backstage, and he suddenly was standing behind me. He took me for a shandy, and we talked and laughed. He was, by the way, one of the stars of that conference, dressing up like a woman. </p>
<p>He could have fun. Life is short. Few, at least in the climbing world (but perhaps in any world) will -- at the end -- be able to say they did as much with their time and accomplished as much as Don Whillans. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/984/bernard-tamworth">Bernard Tamworth</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I went to the Dolomites with Don in July 1985. We climbed a pinnacle near Lecco called 'Il sigaro' which was a grade 5.8 on UIAA scale - about HVS. This was a 4 pitch climb with an abseil off the top. The crux was 10 feet from the summit - a sloping ledge with a bulge pushing you onto your left foot. Don lead this part and overcame the obstacle with a bit of puffing and panting. It was a honour to be the last person to climb with Don. We spent over 2 weeks together in the Dolomites, travelling down on motor bikes. unlike some of the stories, I found Don easy to get on with as long as you were upfront with him and gave him no bulls**t!!! I think I was the only person to ever owe money to Don. He lent me 100 french francs for petrol on the way back, but unfortunately he died before I could pay him back!! [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/984/bernard-tamworth">Bernard Tamworth</a>, comment on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4">Don Whillains' Last Climb</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372</a></p>
<p>[4] With <a href="/climber/729/chris-bonnington">Chris Bonnington</a> on the Central Pillar of Freney <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/</a></p>
<p>[5] With <a href="/climber/698/joe-brown">Joe Brown</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/">https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/</a></p>
After
<p><a href="/climber/1099/pat-ament">Pat Ament</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I loved Don. I never saw him be mean-spirited, though I did know he drank and had his frustrations. He was especially intolerant of people who overrated themselves or simply did not know what they were talking about. I respected that quality in him, although he could have tempered his opinions, certainly, at times. I don't think I ever saw him get wrankled with someone who didn't deserve it. </p>
<p>He was incredibly funny, incredibly brilliant, not -- in my opinion -- a tragic figure. I saw greatness. I mean, think of all he achieved, the successes run through memory, glimpses of deep winter with Haston on the Eiger Direct, or on various mountains of the Himalaya, such as Annapurna. </p>
<p>He was like <a href="/climber/612/joe-brown">Joe [Brown]</a> in that, coming from a rock climbing background, it was astonishing he could switch to mountaineering as though it were nothing. In younger years, he and Joe were in their element and climbed so beautifully, so boldly, with such limited gear they mostly invented as they went along. Sure, like all of us, he had his challenges and his imperfections, had some personal trials. He wasn't about to be pushed around. </p>
<p>Not so many will deserve a wonderful biography by a wonderful author. I climbed with Don in Eldorado in 1966, when Royal brought him to America. He ran out one difficult pitch on sight, nothing to it.... We hit it off. After his visit to Yosemite, where he walked up the Crack of Doom with Pratt, followed the difficult off-width on Crack of Despair, and showed that, even out of shape, he could climb with the best of them, Don returned to see me in Colorado. He gave me the small gift of some British coins that were of no use in America. I still have those, still cherish them and his memory. Some 18 years later, when I was guest speaker at the Buxton conference, I was sitting at a mirror backstage, and he suddenly was standing behind me. He took me for a shandy, and we talked and laughed. He was, by the way, one of the stars of that conference, dressing up like a woman. </p>
<p>He could have fun. Life is short. Few, at least in the climbing world (but perhaps in any world) will -- at the end -- be able to say they did as much with their time and accomplished as much as Don Whillans. [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="/climber/984/bernard-tamworth">Bernard Tamworth</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I went to the Dolomites with Don in July 1985. We climbed a pinnacle near Lecco called 'Il sigaro' which was a grade 5.8 on UIAA scale - about HVS. This was a 4 pitch climb with an abseil off the top. The crux was 10 feet from the summit - a sloping ledge with a bulge pushing you onto your left foot. Don lead this part and overcame the obstacle with a bit of puffing and panting. It was a honour to be the last person to climb with Don. We spent over 2 weeks together in the Dolomites, travelling down on motor bikes. unlike some of the stories, I found Don easy to get on with as long as you were upfront with him and gave him no bulls**t!!! I think I was the only person to ever owe money to Don. He lent me 100 french francs for petrol on the way back, but unfortunately he died before I could pay him back!! [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/984/bernard-tamworth">Bernard Tamworth</a>, comment on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4">Don Whillains' Last Climb</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578">https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4384744478304277&set=a.230171883761578</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372">https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/948094701923372</a></p>
<p>[4] With <a href="/climber/729/chris-bonnington">Chris Bonnington</a> on the Central Pillar of Freney <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CO5502uDiQU/</a></p>
<p>[5] With <a href="/climber/698/joe-brown">Joe Brown</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/">https://www.instagram.com/p/B_a_U0Rjqgs/</a></p>
<p>[6] Interview with <a href="/climber/1012/ken-wilson">Ken Wilson</a> 1972, <em>Mountain</em> Issue 20, page 24</p>
|
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| 19 | 16th August 2024 | 11:43:06 | remus | ascent | Strapiombo | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
7
|
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| 20 | 16th August 2024 | 11:43:06 | remus | ascent | Strapiombo | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
730
|
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