| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 9th February 2025 | 09:43:50 | remus | ascent | Andy Pollitt | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_the_bells__an_extract_from_andy_pollitts_punk_in_the_gym-12110">https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_the_bells__an_extract_from_andy_pollitts_punk_in_the_gym-12110</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>It had been top roped a few times since <a href="/climber/623/john-redhead">John [Redhead]</a> led it and as far as I knew only one person hadn't fallen off. They were three Peak E5 leaders whose comments on the route were something like, 'utterly ridiculous', 'think I only spotted one poor RP placement' and 'death on a stick'. Three of the top rope falls were due to a 'crucial' finger flake and two footholds snapping off so I wasn't even sure if the route was still climbable. That intrigued me and I began psyching up for it and when <a href="/climber/561/johnny-dawes">Johnny</a>, <a href="/climber/613/paul-pritchard">Pritch</a> and <a href="/climber/540/nick-dixon">Nick Dixon</a> starting checking it out two years later it became, in my mind, a 'now or never' situation and I went for it! [2]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_the_bells__an_extract_from_andy_pollitts_punk_in_the_gym-12110">https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_the_bells__an_extract_from_andy_pollitts_punk_in_the_gym-12110</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mark_zippy_pretty_and_andy_pollitt-9762">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mark_zippy_pretty_and_andy_pollitt-9762</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 2 | 9th February 2025 | 09:43:50 | remus | ascent | Andy Pollitt | notes | |
|
Before
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_the_bells__an_extract_from_andy_pollitts_punk_in_the_gym-12110](https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_the_bells__an_extract_from_andy_pollitts_punk_in_the_gym-12110)
After
> It had been top roped a few times since [John [Redhead]](/climber/623/john-redhead) led it and as far as I knew only one person hadn't fallen off. They were three Peak E5 leaders whose comments on the route were something like, 'utterly ridiculous', 'think I only spotted one poor RP placement' and 'death on a stick'. Three of the top rope falls were due to a 'crucial' finger flake and two footholds snapping off so I wasn't even sure if the route was still climbable. That intrigued me and I began psyching up for it and when [Johnny](/climber/561/johnny-dawes), [Pritch](/climber/613/paul-pritchard) and [Nick Dixon](/climber/540/nick-dixon) starting checking it out two years later it became, in my mind, a 'now or never' situation and I went for it! [2]
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_the_bells__an_extract_from_andy_pollitts_punk_in_the_gym-12110](https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/the_bells_the_bells__an_extract_from_andy_pollitts_punk_in_the_gym-12110)
[2] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mark_zippy_pretty_and_andy_pollitt-9762](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mark_zippy_pretty_and_andy_pollitt-9762)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 3 | 27th October 2024 | 12:25:17 | remus | ascent | Glenda Huxter | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Glenda used a side runner in <a href="/climb/779/the-cad">The Cad</a> though there's some debate about how much difference it makes.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>Queens of the Stone</em> by <a href="/climber/453/lucy-ellis">Lucy Ellis</a>, 2003. <em>On The Edge 126</em>, page 46</p>
After
<p>With this ascent Glenda became the first woman to onsight E7. She used a side runner in <a href="/climb/779/the-cad">The Cad</a> though there's some debate about how much difference it makes.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>Queens of the Stone</em> by <a href="/climber/453/lucy-ellis">Lucy Ellis</a>, 2003. <em>On The Edge 126</em>, page 46</p>
|
|||||||
| 4 | 27th October 2024 | 12:25:17 | remus | ascent | Glenda Huxter | notes | |
|
Before
Glenda used a side runner in [The Cad](/climb/779/the-cad) though there's some debate about how much difference it makes.
### References
[1] *Queens of the Stone* by [Lucy Ellis](/climber/453/lucy-ellis), 2003. *On The Edge 126*, page 46
After
With this ascent Glenda became the first woman to onsight E7. She used a side runner in [The Cad](/climb/779/the-cad) though there's some debate about how much difference it makes.
### References
[1] *Queens of the Stone* by [Lucy Ellis](/climber/453/lucy-ellis), 2003. *On The Edge 126*, page 46
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 5 | 1st August 2024 | 07:40:31 | remus | ascent | Dougie Hall | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
535
|
|||||||
| 6 | 1st August 2024 | 07:40:31 | remus | ascent | Dougie Hall | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
None
After
1990-10-01
|
|||||||
| 7 | 1st August 2024 | 07:40:31 | remus | ascent | Dougie Hall | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
None
After
1990-09-01
|
|||||||
| 8 | 1st August 2024 | 07:40:31 | remus | ascent | Dougie Hall | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 9 | 1st August 2024 | 07:40:31 | remus | ascent | Dougie Hall | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
7
|
|||||||
| 10 | 1st August 2024 | 07:40:31 | remus | ascent | Dougie Hall | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
628
|
|||||||
| 11 | 2nd March 2024 | 07:33:55 | remus | ascent | Glenda Huxter | notes | |
|
Before
### References
[1] *Queens of the Stone* by [Lucy Ellis](/climber/453/lucy-ellis), 2003. *On The Edge 126*, page 46
After
Glenda used a side runner in [The Cad](/climb/779/the-cad) though there's some debate about how much difference it makes.
### References
[1] *Queens of the Stone* by [Lucy Ellis](/climber/453/lucy-ellis), 2003. *On The Edge 126*, page 46
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 12 | 2nd March 2024 | 07:33:55 | remus | ascent | Glenda Huxter | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>Queens of the Stone</em> by <a href="/climber/453/lucy-ellis">Lucy Ellis</a>, 2003. <em>On The Edge 126</em>, page 46</p>
After
<p>Glenda used a side runner in <a href="/climb/779/the-cad">The Cad</a> though there's some debate about how much difference it makes.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>Queens of the Stone</em> by <a href="/climber/453/lucy-ellis">Lucy Ellis</a>, 2003. <em>On The Edge 126</em>, page 46</p>
|
|||||||
| 13 | 23rd February 2024 | 18:17:52 | remus | ascent | James McHaffie | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
628
|
|||||||
| 14 | 23rd February 2024 | 18:17:52 | remus | ascent | James McHaffie | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
138
|
|||||||
| 15 | 23rd February 2024 | 18:17:52 | remus | ascent | James McHaffie | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
3
|
|||||||
| 16 | 23rd February 2024 | 18:17:52 | remus | ascent | James McHaffie | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
### References
[1] *On The Edge*, Issue 113 page 53
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 17 | 23rd February 2024 | 18:17:52 | remus | ascent | James McHaffie | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <em>On The Edge</em>, Issue 113 page 53</p>
|
|||||||
| 18 | 23rd February 2024 | 18:17:52 | remus | ascent | James McHaffie | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 19 | 23rd February 2024 | 18:17:09 | remus | ascent | Mike Owen | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Third ascent. The week before Mike had set off up the route but had to get a top rope rescue as he couldn't clip the peg.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There was nobody there at all, just Elaine and me. Therefore no chance of a top rope this time. The boulders were slippery and it was very still and quiet. It was do or die. So I set off up the start of The Cad, traversed right to a good foothold and put the HB2 in again. Without hesitating, I committed myself into serious terrain, where it was up to me alone to see this thing through to the end, come what may! I dared not look at the tied off peg as I followed the line of incuts up to the start of the second traverse. There is a shield of rock there where I spent ages trying to get in some dodgy rp's and a tape sling over the top. The seriousness of my position was gnawing away at my concentration (if only I'd known that Hex 4 was nearby!). I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I was from that shield onwards. I seemed to be looking down at myself tiptoeing across, with the ropes trailing uselessly down to the left of me. By the time I gained the shallow groove that led to the top I was almost completely spent and there was no meaningful gear to stop me decking out from about 150 feet. There was a nasty sting in the tail: on the last difficult move I felt a tiny foothold break off as I delicately weighted it. For a moment I swear that I thought I was going to fall to my death. At this point, Elaine was well aware of the mess I was in and was weighing up her possible options to run over the slippery boulders in an attempt to take in the slack if I fell. She told me afterwards that she realised there was nothing she could have done! Somehow, I told myself to calm down and test with my foot to see if there was enough left to stand up on. I crawled over the top and just lay there, utterly spent and sobbing as it all sank in. After a long time, I set up an abseil to strip the gear. You should have seen the smile on my face by the time I got down to Elaine. And I've been wearing it ever since! [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>[1] <a href="https://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-do-steve-boote-climbing-hangar-and.html">https://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-do-steve-boote-climbing-hangar-and.html</a></p>
After
<p>The week before Mike had set off up the route but had to get a top rope rescue as he couldn't clip the peg.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There was nobody there at all, just Elaine and me. Therefore no chance of a top rope this time. The boulders were slippery and it was very still and quiet. It was do or die. So I set off up the start of The Cad, traversed right to a good foothold and put the HB2 in again. Without hesitating, I committed myself into serious terrain, where it was up to me alone to see this thing through to the end, come what may! I dared not look at the tied off peg as I followed the line of incuts up to the start of the second traverse. There is a shield of rock there where I spent ages trying to get in some dodgy rp's and a tape sling over the top. The seriousness of my position was gnawing away at my concentration (if only I'd known that Hex 4 was nearby!). I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I was from that shield onwards. I seemed to be looking down at myself tiptoeing across, with the ropes trailing uselessly down to the left of me. By the time I gained the shallow groove that led to the top I was almost completely spent and there was no meaningful gear to stop me decking out from about 150 feet. There was a nasty sting in the tail: on the last difficult move I felt a tiny foothold break off as I delicately weighted it. For a moment I swear that I thought I was going to fall to my death. At this point, Elaine was well aware of the mess I was in and was weighing up her possible options to run over the slippery boulders in an attempt to take in the slack if I fell. She told me afterwards that she realised there was nothing she could have done! Somehow, I told myself to calm down and test with my foot to see if there was enough left to stand up on. I crawled over the top and just lay there, utterly spent and sobbing as it all sank in. After a long time, I set up an abseil to strip the gear. You should have seen the smile on my face by the time I got down to Elaine. And I've been wearing it ever since! [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-do-steve-boote-climbing-hangar-and.html">https://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-do-steve-boote-climbing-hangar-and.html</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 20 | 23rd February 2024 | 18:17:09 | remus | ascent | Mike Owen | notes | |
|
Before
Third ascent. The week before Mike had set off up the route but had to get a top rope rescue as he couldn't clip the peg.
> There was nobody there at all, just Elaine and me. Therefore no chance of a top rope this time. The boulders were slippery and it was very still and quiet. It was do or die. So I set off up the start of The Cad, traversed right to a good foothold and put the HB2 in again. Without hesitating, I committed myself into serious terrain, where it was up to me alone to see this thing through to the end, come what may! I dared not look at the tied off peg as I followed the line of incuts up to the start of the second traverse. There is a shield of rock there where I spent ages trying to get in some dodgy rp's and a tape sling over the top. The seriousness of my position was gnawing away at my concentration (if only I'd known that Hex 4 was nearby!). I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I was from that shield onwards. I seemed to be looking down at myself tiptoeing across, with the ropes trailing uselessly down to the left of me. By the time I gained the shallow groove that led to the top I was almost completely spent and there was no meaningful gear to stop me decking out from about 150 feet. There was a nasty sting in the tail: on the last difficult move I felt a tiny foothold break off as I delicately weighted it. For a moment I swear that I thought I was going to fall to my death. At this point, Elaine was well aware of the mess I was in and was weighing up her possible options to run over the slippery boulders in an attempt to take in the slack if I fell. She told me afterwards that she realised there was nothing she could have done! Somehow, I told myself to calm down and test with my foot to see if there was enough left to stand up on. I crawled over the top and just lay there, utterly spent and sobbing as it all sank in. After a long time, I set up an abseil to strip the gear. You should have seen the smile on my face by the time I got down to Elaine. And I've been wearing it ever since! [1]
[1] [https://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-do-steve-boote-climbing-hangar-and.html](https://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-do-steve-boote-climbing-hangar-and.html)
After
The week before Mike had set off up the route but had to get a top rope rescue as he couldn't clip the peg.
> There was nobody there at all, just Elaine and me. Therefore no chance of a top rope this time. The boulders were slippery and it was very still and quiet. It was do or die. So I set off up the start of The Cad, traversed right to a good foothold and put the HB2 in again. Without hesitating, I committed myself into serious terrain, where it was up to me alone to see this thing through to the end, come what may! I dared not look at the tied off peg as I followed the line of incuts up to the start of the second traverse. There is a shield of rock there where I spent ages trying to get in some dodgy rp's and a tape sling over the top. The seriousness of my position was gnawing away at my concentration (if only I'd known that Hex 4 was nearby!). I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I was from that shield onwards. I seemed to be looking down at myself tiptoeing across, with the ropes trailing uselessly down to the left of me. By the time I gained the shallow groove that led to the top I was almost completely spent and there was no meaningful gear to stop me decking out from about 150 feet. There was a nasty sting in the tail: on the last difficult move I felt a tiny foothold break off as I delicately weighted it. For a moment I swear that I thought I was going to fall to my death. At this point, Elaine was well aware of the mess I was in and was weighing up her possible options to run over the slippery boulders in an attempt to take in the slack if I fell. She told me afterwards that she realised there was nothing she could have done! Somehow, I told myself to calm down and test with my foot to see if there was enough left to stand up on. I crawled over the top and just lay there, utterly spent and sobbing as it all sank in. After a long time, I set up an abseil to strip the gear. You should have seen the smile on my face by the time I got down to Elaine. And I've been wearing it ever since! [1]
### References
[1] [https://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-do-steve-boote-climbing-hangar-and.html](https://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-do-steve-boote-climbing-hangar-and.html)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||