| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 21 | 27th November 2023 | 13:51:00 | remus | ascent | Lor Sabourin | notes | |
|
Before
> There’s this style of projecting where you give up everything, camp underneath the climb, and stay there ‘til you send. I quickly realized that wasn’t going to be how I could approach this climb. And it also felt like the route deserved better than that. There’s a sense of entitlement when that’s the approach, right? ‘Oh, I’ll just siege it!' For me, that wasn’t the way. I had to be the most balanced, stable form of myself to send this. I needed to show up with my life dialled.[3]
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CzkPSKKJvjD/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CzkPSKKJvjD/)
[2] [https://youtu.be/HmrZXS_6d2A?t=48](https://youtu.be/HmrZXS_6d2A?t=48)
[3] [https://www.climbing.com/news/lor-sabouin-repeats-5-14-crack-utah/](https://www.climbing.com/news/lor-sabouin-repeats-5-14-crack-utah/)
After
> There’s this style of projecting where you give up everything, camp underneath the climb, and stay there ‘til you send. I quickly realized that wasn’t going to be how I could approach this climb. And it also felt like the route deserved better than that. There’s a sense of entitlement when that’s the approach, right? ‘Oh, I’ll just siege it!' For me, that wasn’t the way. I had to be the most balanced, stable form of myself to send this. I needed to show up with my life dialled.[3]
Lor opted for the same taped-right-foot beta that [Mason Earle](/climber/1070/mason-earle) used on the first ascent.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CzkPSKKJvjD/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CzkPSKKJvjD/)
[2] [https://youtu.be/HmrZXS_6d2A?t=48](https://youtu.be/HmrZXS_6d2A?t=48)
[3] [https://www.climbing.com/news/lor-sabouin-repeats-5-14-crack-utah/](https://www.climbing.com/news/lor-sabouin-repeats-5-14-crack-utah/)
Diff
--- before
|
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| 22 | 27th November 2023 | 13:51:00 | remus | ascent | Lor Sabourin | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>There’s this style of projecting where you give up everything, camp underneath the climb, and stay there ‘til you send. I quickly realized that wasn’t going to be how I could approach this climb. And it also felt like the route deserved better than that. There’s a sense of entitlement when that’s the approach, right? ‘Oh, I’ll just siege it!' For me, that wasn’t the way. I had to be the most balanced, stable form of myself to send this. I needed to show up with my life dialled.[3]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CzkPSKKJvjD/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CzkPSKKJvjD/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://youtu.be/HmrZXS_6d2A?t=48">https://youtu.be/HmrZXS_6d2A?t=48</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/lor-sabouin-repeats-5-14-crack-utah/">https://www.climbing.com/news/lor-sabouin-repeats-5-14-crack-utah/</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>There’s this style of projecting where you give up everything, camp underneath the climb, and stay there ‘til you send. I quickly realized that wasn’t going to be how I could approach this climb. And it also felt like the route deserved better than that. There’s a sense of entitlement when that’s the approach, right? ‘Oh, I’ll just siege it!' For me, that wasn’t the way. I had to be the most balanced, stable form of myself to send this. I needed to show up with my life dialled.[3]</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Lor opted for the same taped-right-foot beta that <a href="/climber/1070/mason-earle">Mason Earle</a> used on the first ascent.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CzkPSKKJvjD/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CzkPSKKJvjD/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://youtu.be/HmrZXS_6d2A?t=48">https://youtu.be/HmrZXS_6d2A?t=48</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://www.climbing.com/news/lor-sabouin-repeats-5-14-crack-utah/">https://www.climbing.com/news/lor-sabouin-repeats-5-14-crack-utah/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 23 | 27th November 2023 | 13:49:16 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | notes | |
|
Before
[https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/)
After
> As it's not had many ascents I'll give my thoughts on the grade to add to the general consensus over time. For me it felt tough 8c, harder than [Cobra [Crack]](/climb/661/cobra-crack), easier than [Recovery [Drink]](/climb/689/the-recovery-drink). With pure cracks like this hand and finger size does always play a part though. This crack does take in a range of bad sizes so the cruxes are likely to be slightly different for everyone.
> However, what can be said is it's such a classic for the hard global crack circuit, and you really need to know your pure jamming techniques for this one. Thanks [Mason Earle](/climber/1070/mason-earle) for the vision and the fight right to the anchor. [1]
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 24 | 27th November 2023 | 13:49:16 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/">https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>As it's not had many ascents I'll give my thoughts on the grade to add to the general consensus over time. For me it felt tough 8c, harder than <a href="/climb/661/cobra-crack">Cobra [Crack]</a>, easier than <a href="/climb/689/the-recovery-drink">Recovery [Drink]</a>. With pure cracks like this hand and finger size does always play a part though. This crack does take in a range of bad sizes so the cruxes are likely to be slightly different for everyone.</p>
<p>However, what can be said is it's such a classic for the hard global crack circuit, and you really need to know your pure jamming techniques for this one. Thanks <a href="/climber/1070/mason-earle">Mason Earle</a> for the vision and the fight right to the anchor. [1]</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/">https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 25 | 27th November 2023 | 13:46:42 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | suggested_grade_id | |
|
Before
None
After
227
|
|||||||
| 26 | 26th November 2023 | 18:04:56 | remus | ascent | Brittany Goris | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
1
After
12
|
|||||||
| 27 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:45 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | deleted_on | |
|
Before
None
After
2023-11-24 20:52:45.677769
|
|||||||
| 28 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:35 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
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| 29 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:35 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
166
|
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| 30 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:35 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | climb_id | |
|
Before
None
After
2839
|
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| 31 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:35 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | ascent_style_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
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| 32 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:35 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | notes | |
|
Before
None
After
[https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/](https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/)
Diff
--- before
|
|||||||
| 33 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:35 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/">https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 34 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:35 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
None
After
2023-11-20
|
|||||||
| 35 | 24th November 2023 | 20:52:35 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
None
After
2023-11-24
|
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| 36 | 24th November 2023 | 20:51:57 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | climber_id | |
|
Before
None
After
166
|
|||||||
| 37 | 24th November 2023 | 20:51:57 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
None
After
2023-11-24
|
|||||||
| 38 | 24th November 2023 | 20:51:57 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
None
After
2023-11-20
|
|||||||
| 39 | 24th November 2023 | 20:51:57 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | ascent_type_id | |
|
Before
None
After
1
|
|||||||
| 40 | 24th November 2023 | 20:51:57 | remus | ascent | Pete Whittaker | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
None
After
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/">https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/</a></p>
|
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