Climbs

Originally climbed with a desperate feet low sequence (~8B), this was subsequently improved slightly with a toe on the rail (abely demonstrated by Ben Moon in Hard Grit) before some heel hooking technique was applied which lowered the grade to 7C.

A minor variation avoiding the jug and going straight to the top at ~8A called Fight Club has been climbed. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 95, page 19

Originally put up as 8B+, the consensus seems to have shifted to 8B

Initially given 9a which would have made Adam Ondra's 2012 ascent the first onsight of the grade. However Adam felt the route was more 8c+ and Daniel Woods, who flashed the route on the same day, agreed.

Originally a project of Mark Leach's before Steve McClure took up the reins and made the first ascent.

Originally climbed without pads at E8. As with other lines on this bloc it utilises a large carved runnel to get established on the base of the slab. The runnel is believed to be a historical 'drip edge detail' for a dwelling or shelter that once stood under the roof.

Johnny Dawes' original line climbed the centre of the slab. He has since said this was worth Font 8A. [2]

1996 Chatsworth guide description:

The Angel's Share 7m, E8 7a

A contender for the hardest route in the area. From the gutter, climb the blank-looking slab directly up its centre with great confidence and total disbelief! Considering the length of this route, the grade 'says' it all.

In 1998 the centre line lost a pebble. Tom de Gay:

I believe JD went further left, but there used to be a handy micro-pebble which I unfortunately removed whilst soloing it, with my right hand on the slopey top, to the left of the seam. c.1998 [1]

Subsequent ascensionists have taken lines further right, where the slab is slightly less steep, but the temptation to reach for the arete of Velvet Silence is greater. Dawes has top-roped this line no-handed. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C53smFWt6jZ/?img_index=1

[2] https://youtu.be/5416X0ID1zU?t=475

[3] Correspondence, October 2025.

Named after John Allen, a prolific force in the Peak District, who sadly died shortly before the first ascent.

The difficulty is pretty dependent on height. Taller climbers can use a low foothold which makes it substantially easier. [1]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/tn-3-hzoxSE?t=147

Originally climbed with a sika'd hold by Nic Sellars in 1992 and named 'Justified and Ancient', a song by The KLF. Then claimed as Yorkshire's first 8c after being reclimbed by Tony Mitchell without the sika'd hold. Subsequently an easier method looping out right was discovered, resulting in the route settling at 8b+