Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


3243 Climbers

6237 Climbs

16332 Ascents


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James McHaffie

James McHaffie is a prolific North Wales based trad climber who's also a very capable sport climber. He is one of the best trad onsight climbers in the UK (and potentially the world) with over a hundred E7 onsights to his name. He's also completed some impressive challenges, such as the 100 lakes extremes in a day.

On the 26th May 2021 James climbed Revelations at Raven Tor, the last route of 180 on his way to ticking every route in the book Extreme Rock. This incredible effort demonstrates a huge breadth and depth of experience, from relatively pedestrian climbs such as The Strand at Gogarth (North Stack And Main Cliff) to bold and intimidating leads such as Johnny Dawes' Indian Face and Jerry Moffatt's Master's Wall.

References

[1] Interview with DMM, September 2021 https://dmmwales.com/journal/may-2021/mchaffie-completes-extreme-rock

[2] Interview with RockClimbingUK, 2011 https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23709.0

[3] Interview with March Langley for UKClimbing.com, September 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/james_mchaffie_-_the_cumbrian-13045

[4] Adam Hocking picture of James McHaffie during his 100 lakes extremes in a day challenge https://www.instagram.com/p/CDb9sm3DI-T/

[5] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/caffs_100_lakeland_extremes-890

James McHaffie is a prolific North Wales based trad climber who's also a very capable sport climber. He is one of the best trad onsight climbers in the UK (and potentially the world) with over a hundred E7 onsights to his name. He's also completed some impressive challenges, such as the 100 lakes extremes in a day.

On the 26th May 2021 James climbed Revelations at Raven Tor, the last route of 180 on his way to ticking every route in the book Extreme Rock. This incredible effort demonstrates a huge breadth and depth of experience, from relatively pedestrian climbs such as The Strand at Gogarth (North Stack And Main Cliff) to bold and intimidating leads such as Johnny Dawes' Indian Face and Jerry Moffatt's Master's Wall.

References

[1] Interview with DMM, September 2021 https://dmmwales.com/journal/may-2021/mchaffie-completes-extreme-rock

[2] Interview with RockClimbingUK, 2011 https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23709.0

[3] Interview with March Langley for UKClimbing.com, September 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/james_mchaffie_-_the_cumbrian-13045

[4] Adam Hocking picture of James McHaffie during his 100 lakes extremes in a day challenge https://www.instagram.com/p/CDb9sm3DI-T/

[5] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/caffs_100_lakeland_extremes-890

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Media

12 of the pitches are 7c+/5.13 or harder including two 8b+/5.14a. Due to its sustained nature it may be the second-hardest free wall on El Capitan (2025).

12 of the pitches are harder than 7c+/5.13 including two 8b+/5.14a. Due to its sustained nature this may be the second-hardest free wall on El Capitan (2025).

With Jeff Schoen and Alan Lester. 95% free: one point of aid on p2, a few points on p7.

References

[1] https://web.archive.org/web/20170213064201/http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#dihedral

Free version of Muir Wall with some variations in line including final pitches of The Shield.

El Corazón takes features originally aid climbed by Flight of the Albatross, Heart Route and Son of Heart linked by some new climbing. The name means The Heart in Spanish.