Climbs

The third route to be climbed on the main face of El Capitan and the first from non-locals. A siege ascent over eight months with fixed ropes almost the entire length of the route.

There was on El Capitan one line left, the direct south west face, logically left unclimbed to the last. (Ed Cooper)

References

[1] Roper, S ed. (2002). Ordeal by Piton. USA: Stanford University Library p111-117

The name is a pun based on the fact the equipper suggested the route to Adam Ondra (who is known for his impressive power screams).

"Eagle" = y (il) gueule = he shouts/screams, "-" = tiret ~ très* = very, "four" = fort = loud(ly) => Y gueule très fort (he screams really loudly) [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/eagle_4_9b_by_julia_chanourdie-727537?v=1#x9332478

Chris Sharma, the first ascenionist:

It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerate that offers some really cool climbing, up this beautiful blue streak and tiny conglomerate pebbles. The moves are unique, completely different from what I was used to at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya. Imagine five 8A boulder problems stacked one on top of the other, with a few rests, but nothing great. The moves are very dynamic and yet at the same time extremely subtle, even though they’re right my style I found them to be really tricky. They require lot of coordination and muscle memory, everything has to be just right, you have to be amped but at the same time let it flow effortlessly. It’s at least 9b, but I’ve decided to give it the b+ slash grade because, who knows, perhaps it’s even harder. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-interview-after-new-9b-climb-at-cova-de-ocell-in-spain.html

Chironico