Climbs

One of the most iconic and compelling highballs in the world. Initially graded 8C, but now considered a contender for the world's first 8C+ boulder.

5.10a

12 of the pitches are 7c+ to 8b+.

Neil Dyer and Pete Robins battled it out for the first ascent with Robins eventually grabbing the FA.

A project of Ron Kauk's before he suffered an injury which stopped him trying the line. Beth Rodden then invested substantial time and energy in to the line before making the first ascent in 2008. The line then waited an incredible 10 years before receiving a second ascent from Carlo Traversi.

Oslo, Norway

Originally 5.13b, currently 5.12c

The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928

[2] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106138026/the-moonlight-buttress-free

Originally given 9a but now considered 9a+. Chris Sharma:

I will never climb this route.

One of the earliest problems to get the 8B+ grade.