Climbs

Kilnsey's first 8c. In 2024 a hold came off on the upper section making the route a little harder.

An old project from Chris Sharma and Dave Graham, features in dosage (vol 4?)

Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.

Josh Lowell:

At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2Ydq78HiAujHdEy0t4hp1R?

Sleepwalker is a boulder problem in Red Rocks in the USA. Nalle Hukkataival first cleaned and tried the line, and was then joined by Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods in trying it. Jimmy Webb made the first ascent, shortly followed by Daniel Woods. After a prolonged battle with skin and conditions Nalle was able to make the third ascent.

It has become one of the most popular hard boulders in the world, in part due to relatively reliable conditions and ease of access, with 15 ascents at the time of writing.

Ravioli Biceps:

I was at Wet Dream and Dave Graham was there, and he was walking around trying some stuff and I'd walked by Sleepwalker hundreds of times. He walks by, he looks at it a bit, some chalk real quick...e looks at it and he's like "This is the next 8C in America."...It's great that it came to fruition in a big way. [1]

Originally put up at 8C+, opinion is now moving closer to 8C. There is some speculation that holds, particularly the slot, may have improved over time due to erosion of the rock.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DNJG0LNOKZb/

Immortalised in the 1994 film One Summer, Superman was one of the hardest problems around at the time of its first ascent, c.1989. The problem is somewhat eliminate; an easier version using all the holds is known as Superwoman.

It was originally graded 8A+, at least according to Jerry's autobiography, though was given 8B in One Summer. After the left hand sidepull broke in c.2004 it was reascended by Tim Clifford, apparently also at 8A+; this version was for a while known as Superman II. It's now considered 8B.

8B/+.

Estado Crítico is notable for being the first ever 9a to be onsighted after Alex Megos climbed it in March 2012.

Although Ramón Julián Puigblanque suggested 9a when he made the first ascent it later settled to around 8c+/9a after several repeats (most notably a third go ascent from Adam Ondra and a second go ascent from Patxi Usobiaga). However around 2010 a hold broke and after reclimbing the route while working Golpe de Estado Adam suggested 9a was appropriate. Since then the grade has settled at 9a.