Climbs

Around 2018 the crux hold was chipped making the problem slightly easier. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CmHtkP6uRao/

Sirevåg, Norway

Ed Drummond climbed the first pitch at a slightly lower level than the current line, top-roping it first, placing a bolt, pitons and using skyhooks (a total of 5 points of aid) on the 8th July 1973. This was omitted from the 1976 guide on ethical grounds although other routes of the time had employed similar amounts of aid.

The first 8A in the forest, climbed by Jacky Godoffe after six months of effort.

Godoffe:

Throughout this entire gestation, I was immersed in reading The Seventh Grade by Reinhold Messner, which filled me with intense excitement at the idea of introducing the eighth grade here in Fontainebleau, the temple of uncompromising grading. His exceptional journey inspired me and would give me boundless energy for years to come. In it, he speaks frankly about performance, competition, and sporting achievements, combined with an unrestrained love of climbing. [1]

References

[1] Modica, Godoffe, 'Fontainebleau: 100 ans d'escalade', Les Editions Mont Blanc, 2017

The crux first move is 8B+ on it's own, with a tricky ~8Aish sequence still to do after you stick the start.

Originally climbed by pinching the right hand starting hold and making a powerful move to the first crimp and given 8B with this sequence. Subsequently the beta has improved and now involves guppying the starting right hand hold and using a left heel to make the first move static.

Originally given 8C, now considered 8B+.