Dina Crac | E9/8b+ Trad climb at Dinas Rock

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First ascent.

I think this particular crack project has been one of the biggest struggles for me, due to a combination of factors. The climbing is really quite hard, the conditions on the line are incredibly fickle and the moves are so complicated that each time I would come down, I’d waste at least half a day remembering how to move my body. The route starts up a very strange and steep 2 bolt sport route which is more like climbing a long boulder problem. This then gives you access to an 80 degree finger roof crack. The sequence through the roof is around V10 and involves amazing spins on finger jams, an undercut mono-style move and some funky heel action. All of this has to be stopped in the middle of though, to place two micro nuts, which caused me problems on a few occasions! [1]

References

[1] https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2014/08/18/dina-crac-e9-7a-welsh-limestone-trad/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/08/new_e9_7a_roof_crack_for_tom_randall_-_dina_crac-69120