Climbs

One of the first 8c+s in Spain.

The first route to breach the south east face of El Capitan by the all-star team of Robbins, Pratt, Frost and Chouinard. After several exploratory attempts by Robbins with Glen Denny and Tom Frost the ascent was accomplished in one push with no fixed ropes. This was the first time a route had been established in this style on El Capitan and in marked contrast to the extensive fixed ropes employed on the multi-month ascents of The Nose and Dihedral Wall. It was graded A5 and regarded as probably the hardest in the world of its genre at the time of ascent.

Royal Robbins:

We all felt similarly about the climb — it was not an appealing wall. It did not have the elegance or majesty of the southwest face. The treacherous dark rock, the difficulty of retreat due to great overhangs and long traverses, the absence of a natural route, and finally the apparent necessity for many bolts rendered us not happily enthusiastic about the venture. A large part of our individual selves did not want to attempt this face. But another part was lured on by the challenge of the greatest unclimbed rock wall in North America.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196533100/The-North-America-Wall

Neil Gresham called the route Olympiad as he made the ascent on the 27th July 2012, the same day the London olympics started. Unusually, Steve McClure then made the second ascent on trad gear, suggesting a grade of E10.